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  1. <None>
    by lsmith/ (5 Jan 94)
  2. (M) Help! Bruised Tang
    by UD005565/NDSUVM1.BITNET (6 Feb 92)


by lsmith/
Date: 5 Jan 94
Newsgroup: rec.aquaria

the following info is from Moe's book "Marine Aquarium Handbook -- beginner 
to breeder":
There are apparently at least two different organisms responsible for
"saltwater ick".  I will try to summarize symptoms and treatments.

Symptoms:white spots that look like a dusting of salt.  The infestation 
begins in the gills.  Infected fish often scratch their sides.

What it is: it is called coral fish disease, white spot disease, velvet
disease or saltwater ick.
It is is caused by an organism called amyloodinium ocellatum.

Treatment should begin with a freshwater bath for the infected fish.
Make sure the freshwater is aerated, and same temp and ph as original tank 
water and dechlorinated.  Dip all fish from the infected tank for 1-2
minutes.  Use your judgement..if a fish begins to panic, take him out of
the bath.  This makes the parasites fall off the fish.
Never return this fresh bathwater to the saltwater tank!

Moe reccommends a three week copper treatment in a quarantine tank of
2-3 part per million.  

(the above method worked for me fine.)

The tank must also be treated!  i.e. All fish must be removed so the parasite
has no hosts!  Usually the free swiming stage of the parasite can only survive
a few days without a host (this is the stage immediately after the dinospores
have hatched).  However...some strains can survive for 15 to 30 days without
a host.  The process can be hastened if the fish-less tank is heated because
this speeds up the life cycle of the parasite.  With a temp of 85F (or 90F
if you can get it) the parasite should be wiped out of the tank in 2 weeks
and 3 weeks is "almost a sure thing".
After this treatment the tank must be cleaned via gravel cleaner or siphon
(whatever is appropriate) to remove any existing cysts.

Cause #2:
White spots about the size of a pinhead.  They look like small pimples.
They do not have the 'dusty' or salty appearance of previous problem.
This infestation frequently infects the fills but the first sign of the
disease is usually severl spots on the body and fins of the fish.
More of these discretewhite pustules develop as the disease progresses.
The gills become clogged.  Scatching on the bottom or on rocks is common
for the infected fish.

what it is: called white spot disease and as saltwater ick.
It is caused by an organism called cryptocaryon.

First step: freshwater bath (see above)
Copper is not as effective against this creature.  The traditional treatment
is with formalin bath, one hour for hardy fish, 1/2 hour for sensitive fish.
This can be followed with light (0.15 to 0.2 ppm) copper treatment in
the quarantine tank.
The 2 bath process can be repeated after three days if cryptocaryon are
noticed on the fish.  After 2 weeks under copper treatment the infestation
should be cured.
formalin bath: add one ml of formalin for each gallon of saltwater in the bath
(one teaspoon to five gallons).  Aerate this preparation very actively
because formalin reduces oxygen saturation and carefully time the bath. 
If the fish appears stressed "signs of shock" terminate the bath.
Formalin is potent...don't inhale it or get it in your eyes or on your skin.
Formalin will demolish your biological filter so don't put it in your 
main tank.

the tank can be cleansed of cryptocaryon with a time-temperature treatment
of 10 days at 85F.

Whew!  that was longer than I anticipated.  Thank you Mr. Moe!

Good luck all!

(M) Help! Bruised Tang

Date: 6 Feb 92
Newsgroup: rec.aquaria

I always have mecurochome at home. It is one of the best antiseptics, has
the ability to penetrate tissue, and doesn't sting. I've used in on freshwater
and saltwater fish, and even on the kids. Net the fish with a fine fishnet
and put a dab on the part of the net covering the wound, then put the fish
back in its tank. Try not to get any on the gills, and try not to contaminate
the water with the mecurochrome on the net. I've used this on the eyes, and
even on fungus growths. Make sure you use mecurochrome and not methiolate.

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