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Nuphar (Pond Lily)

Contents:

  1. [F][Plant] Spatterdock!
    by sonny-at-cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa) (Mon, 29 Mar 1993)
  2. [F][Plant] Nuphar propagation
    by hslater-at-nudge.io.org (Harold Slater) (22 Dec 1994)
  3. Nuphar Water Lilly
    by "Merrill Cohen" <amc2/ix.netcom.com> (Fri, 13 Mar 1998)
  4. Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #1214
    by Gerry Skau <gerry/ans.net> (Fri, 27 Aug 1999)


Nuphar sp.


Nuphar sp. bloom
, Lake Hills Greenbelt, Bellevue, Seattle.

photos by Erik Olson

[F][Plant] Spatterdock!

by sonny-at-cbnewsf.cb.att.com (joseph.j.de rosa)
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1993

In article <erik.200.733186994-at-marge.phys.washington.edu>
(e-mail) (Erik D. Olson) writes:
>I just got some Nuphar sp. (perhaps sagittfolia?) from my favorite local 
>fish-n-plant place.  For those who don't know, it's in the same family as 
>waterlillies and Barclaya, and according to what little info I can glean 
>from my books, is supposed to get really big and have tons and tons of 
>submerged bright green lily-like leaves.  It's also supposed to like rich 
>soil and lots of light.  The guy at the store warned me that the leaves 
>easily rot if bunged, and also said few people have luck with it...a line 
>that virtually insures I will buy it. :)
>
>When I bought it, the plant looked like a cutting lopped off another plant, 
>and had the appearance of a cut-back palm -- you could see where leaves (
>fronds) used to be.  It had about 2 small leaves and no roots.  I stuck it 
>down at a slight angle into a plastic pot with potting soil/sand mixture 
>covered in 1" of silica sand.  Though both original leaves have since 
>melted off, three new ones have developed in the last two weeks, and I can 
>see at least two roots originating slightly above ground and pushing down.  
>I just transferred the plant yesterday (in its pot) to my well-lit tank with 
>CO2, so I'll see if growth increases further. 
>
>Inspired by seeing Spatterdock mentioned in joseph.j.de.rosa's recent 
>post :), I thought I'd post this and ask if anyone else grows (or grew) this 
>and if they have any (real) anecdotes/pointers/etc.  

Wow, people DO read my posts!! 

As it happens, I do have some real information about fish which I am willing
to share. SPatterdock is a plant that causes alot of problems for most people.
You have obtained a cutting, which usually will rot away in a few
weeks/months.
The cut end is VERY susseptible to rotting, and root growth is not always a 
sign that all is well. Spatterdock is a BEAUTIFUL plant, so I've usually
bought it whenever I find it in a shop. Unfortunately, most of them have
rotted, in spite of my best efforts. I don't know what it is that has made
some
efforts successful, while others failed, but I'd suggest good light and 
clean water (big suprises, huh?). 

One SURE-FIRE way to succeed with spaterdock is to get seedlings. I'm 
usually able to collect a half-dozen or so in a day if I put my mind to it.
I find them in a local stream, and they are pretty small (the size of my fist,
with leaves a little larger than a quarter). These plants are pretty durable, 
and grow real nicely in a tank.

Be sure that you have LOTS of room, since it will get REAL BIG. And I've 
found that the plant stays in bounds better if you never let ANY leaves float.
Once you let one leaf float, all the leaves will grow emersed.

Joe 'I know real stuff too' DeRosa
jderosa-at-attmail.att.com

[F][Plant] Nuphar propagation

by hslater-at-nudge.io.org (Harold Slater)
Date: 22 Dec 1994
Newsgroup: rec.aquaria

Len Trigg (trigg-at-jane.cs.waikato.ac.nz) wrote:
: I would like to try and propagate this plant if possible with the eventual
: aim of putting some in my indoor tank (and as a fun thing to do).  I would
: be interested in hearing any experience other netters have had in
: propagating Spatterdock.

: Propagation is by seeds (cuttings die after exhausting food reserves).
 
Really, I've propagated Spatterdock in the past by cuttings many times.
They've all survived. I think if you want to transplant the cutting into
the home aquarium you should first let it start to grow outside. Once
growing well clean some of the longer roots and any dirt and put it into
your aquarium. I've done it and they have survived.

Harold


Nuphar Water Lilly

by "Merrill Cohen" <amc2/ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 1998
To: APD

Erik wrote:

Going off-topic with that last paragraph, I would totally love to see
a grower or hobbyist sell pond lily (Nuphar) reproduced from seed, as
opposed to the ridiculous "lopped-off" tubers that rot away and die
within 3 months.  I'd pay real money for that.

Eric -- You would probably have to wait a long time to get blooms, but try
Slocum Water Gardens in Florida.  He's great at pond lilliies and might
even have some reproduced from seed.  The family has been culturing lillies
for many years and Peter Slocum is respected as an authority on lillies. 
He's in Winter Haven, FL - phone (941) 293-7151 and has a catalog.

Good luck.

Merrill


Aquatic Plants Digest V3 #1214

by Gerry Skau <gerry/ans.net>
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999

A trick I heard of a couple of years ago with Cape Fear Spatterdocks-slice
off the end with a neat cut, melt a little wax from a pure beeswax candle,
not a regular one, and dip the end in that.



> Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 14:40:30 -0700
> From: lovell <lovell/drizzle.com>
> Subject: Anubias Cuttings and Flesh Eating Bacteria
>
> >>I sliced a rhizome all the way through, and I lost quite a bit of the
> >>plant. Both halves recovered, but I was disappointed with the amount
of
> >>loss of plants as a result of the cutting.
>
> >I've never had that happen. Generally they are very tough and the
> >ends don't rot.
>
> I bought a 4" long piece of A. barteri at the LFS about a year ago.  It
> was clearly a scrap from somebody's tank and not a commercially raised
> specimen.  It had a slightly ragged end where it had (apparently) broken
> off the parent plant, but since the plant looked generally healthy, I
> didn't pay any attention to this.  Gradually, though, leaves at the
> ragged end would rot at their attachment to the rhizome and fall off.  I
> let this go on longer than I should have.  When I finally pulled the
> plant out of the tank to have a look, it was clear that rot was
> progressing slowly up the rhizome.  I thought all I'd I've to do was cut
> off the bad end and the plant would be fine.  (Anubias are the
> indestructible plants, right?)  I squared off the bad end with a razor
> blade, but I could see that there was still just a little necrotic
> tissue within the rhizome.  Once again, I didn't think this was a big
> deal, but leaves continued to slowly rot at the bases and die, so I
> pulled the plant again and decided to keep cutting this time until all I
> had left was healthy tissue.  I was surprised to find that the rot had
> basically propagated all the way up the inside of the rhizome until the
> whole thing was full of it to a greater or lesser degree.  I tried to
> save a pitiful little 3/4" stump and it's attached leaf, but it too
> rotted and died; over the course of about 9 months the plant had slowly
> rotted away to nothing.  Later, when I bought an A. coffeiafolia (sp?)
> "cutting" (that looked like it hadn't so much been cut as broken off the
> end of the parent), I kept slicing away at the rhizome until I came to
> absolutely healthy tissue.  This entailed taking off about an inch of 3"
> long piece, but the remaining 2" with it's few leaves started growing
> well shortly thereafter and is now turning into a pretty little plant.
>       I guess the moral of this (too) long post is that it's best not to
be
> cheap or cowardly about cutting back rotten sections of expensive
> Anubias plants.  It also occurs to me that I have never had this kind of
> problem with commercially grown Anubias -- they are usually vibrantly
> healthy specimens.  But who can resist a cheap little Anubias cutting?
> - -- Sherman Lovell
>


       Gerry Skau
       ANS BigDial Engineering

       IDEOLOGUE: Typically, an obscure humourless zealot who finds
       fulfilment by spouting the ideas of famous humourless zealots.


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