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  1. (F)(PLANT) setting up CO2 and substrate
    by jimh-at-ultra.com (Jim Hurley) (Thu, 22 Oct 92)

(F)(PLANT) setting up CO2 and substrate

by jimh-at-ultra.com (Jim Hurley)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 92

In <1992Oct20.193916.14517-at-astroatc.uucp> schwartz-at-astroatc.uucp (Gordon
Schwartz) writes:

-->Is 20 gallons enough water to have a stable plant tank of 
-->this nature?  Everyone seems to do this in a 100+ gallon.

The size of the tank doesn't matter that much, it depends on
your injection control. With a pH sensor, size is immaterial,
with a bubbler, just set the bubble rate real slow.

I think the cost is too high to justify using a small tank,
that's why people only use it on the larger ones.

My wife use to use inverted mason jars of CO2 in her 27g tank
for a while.

-->I am planning on using a 50/50 mix of peat and potting soil with
-->a half of box of Tetra Initial D.  Thought I'd use about a
-->half inch of this on the bottom with 3 inches of gravel on
-->top.  

-->q:  Do you really need to boil the peat?  Really?
There's a lot or organics in peat and it's pretty tough
in texture. Boiling will kill any microbes/fungus, soften it,
and remove some of the dark color.

If you don't boil it, you might be sorry - rot, fungus,
funny bacteria, dark colored water, pesticides, etc.

-->q:  Does anyone know if Tetra Initial D is the right thing to
-->use?  I looked locally for (anything named) laterite, but
-->couldn't find any.  Tetra product does not say if it has
-->any iron in it, just says Nitrogen and Potash.  Do I need to
-->find some laterite as well?

I think it's a good idea, but it's not essential. I don't
have any in my 100g tank, and I get plenty of growth, but
I have simple plants. If you want the plants to look rosy,
you'll need to add some iron and trace elements, lighting
isn't sufficient.

AP makes a laterite and there's Duplarit.
No one seems to know what's in Hilena D.

Plants can take some iron through the leaves, but I guess
most prefer to use the roots.

Make sure you mix this stuff well in the substrate
and cover it with plenty of other stuff, otherwise
it will get stirred up in the water badly. I know :-(
The 3 inches you mention sounds sufficient.

-->q:  How do you tee the CO2 into the Eheim?  Seems the tubing
-->is an odd (metric?) size.  I can't imagine a clean way of
-->doing this.

I bought a plastic T section and used auto hose clamps.
I use a Magnum 220. The T section was bought from a local aquarium
store.

-->q: Someone had posted a (mail order?) source for needle
-->valves and solenoids.  Could someone re-post/Email me them?
--> I can't seem to find the old post.

Needle valves was probably from Gary Bishop. Here's that part of his post:
    Needle Valve: $9.60 from "Air Power Inc.".  The valve is the model
    "NO1" from "The ARO Corporation, One ARO Center, Bryan, OHIO 43506,
    PH(419)636-4242".  It provides infinite control from full-close to
    full-open.  It has a neat color scale to indicate the degree of
    openness and can be locked at any setting.  The adjustment is very
    smooth; I can go from off through incredibly slow flows to just
    right and beyond to way more than I need.  I haven't used the $42
    Nupro S series valve but if it is better than this one, then it may
    well be over kill.

Solenoids, try Humphrey 310 series. A local supplier can be found in your
yellow pages.

-- 
Jim Hurley --> jimh-at-ultra.com  ...!ames!ultra!jimh  (408) 922-0100
Ultra Network Technologies / 101 Daggett Drive / San Jose CA 95134

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